Most cars use the engine to run the ac. Putting a load on a stationary car is bad because the radiators might not get sufficient air to cool the engine.

There are some cars that run ac off the battery. Believe the worst that can happen here is you kill the battery.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37626499)

Also, it's not that it's "bad" for it, it's that it won't even work in a lot of cars, i.e. the heater would just blow unheated air at you unless the engine is already warm. I would never even think to run the AC since it's so obvious that you need the engine for that. Like, the compressor is driven by a pully for which the engine has to be running for it to work.

The wife picked a fight about this since you're probably a liberal artist so even when you're right about Cars, you're declared wrong, and you SUCK, so it was just her way to pwn you.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628275)

You're talking about a cold start. So, one of those prole wisdom nuggets is that you produce more "wear" when starting an engine than at any other time. Which kind of makes sense in a way if you're driving a 1960 Plymouth or something and the air/fuel mixture is just random for the first 10 seconds that it runs, but think about how modern ECUs work... this is totally outmoded prole science. Having the A/C running and having 1% more load on the engine just adds to this prole theory.

Having said that, typically, you don't want to run the AC at full blast when you first start the Car since the air won't be cold and it'll give you a high idle and maybe more vibration, which seems "bad" and probably isn't "good" since it's basially the opposite of an Italian tune-up. Over the course of YEARS, this is the sort of thing that might gradually fuck over the car's 3rd owner and it's just one of those things you sorta wouldn't do if you were babying an old car.

Heat, on the other hand, is nothing.... again it's not Hot at first but if anything you're taking stress off the engine. The conventional advice when a car is overheating is to actually run the heater full blast to remove heat. Engines like being cold and they produce more Power when they are.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628368)

Engine needs to be warm for the engine oil to properly do its function.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628488)

You changed the subject from saying that a cold engine works better, which is a dumb statement to make.

edit: also you're the guy dismissing supposed "0.1%" things now arguing that these said marginal improvements are important.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628805)

As far as wear on the engine, AC compressors have clutches such that the compressor is not engaged unless power is being sent to the clutch to engage it. Modern cars will disengage the clutch on start up even with the AC on, but this is not universal in my experience. So maybe it is beneficial so there is less load on the engine when cold (and also it’s probably sub optimal to run the compressor when the car is turning over). But not a big deal. It is a big deal and you should run your AC once a week or month in winter to keep the compressor moving and to prevent corrosion. Funny enough, modern cars run the compressor on defrost which is an old trick that works well that has no been automated (running AC dries out the air which makes defogging more efffective).

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628645)

cars and trucks are fun af

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628456)

Without downshifting, manual is just an annoyance, not sure why anyone would "enjoy" it otherwise.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628505)

Name the years, makes, and models you have in mind.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628533)

And they do (or some do) cut power to the AC compressor. In fact, one of my beefs with modern cars is that a lot cut the AC compressor clutch at full throttle (to provide more accelleration) so if you floor it you lose cooling for a second.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628793)

we went to the moon and have jets that travel faster than the speed of sound, but engineers haven't figured out the old AC+car start question

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628427)

Proles got fucked over by Detroit for decades and have been conditioned to blame themselves when their Pintos lasted 70k miles... there is literally zero empirical Engineering research available to the public into this supposed "damage" that proles are so confident about. I guarantee Japanese Proles and African proles don't have all of these wisdom nuggets with their Corollas. Prole Wisdom is often just outdated shit that someone's grandfather said in 1980.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628642)

Babying makes sense ceteris parbibus but at some point you're just being superstitious about the effect that it has, and doing it just makes me feel like a recession victim, terrified of his precious car breaking down and costing him money, like the kind of shit you'd see written in the NYT in 2011, which is why I floor it everywhere. And I say this as a Liberal.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628784)

You don't need to go from good practices like starting car without AC to flooring the pedal at every stop light.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628840)

As far as I can tell, Cars represent Freedom and Adulthood to boomers, so they wanted to mitigate the upsides of Car ownership as much as they possibly could in order to affect my life Negatively, again becase "reasons." Whereas we Gen Y bros see Cars as Transportation and shit.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628944)

edit: I do not understand parents who are dicks to their kids...

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628994)

I love my cars so I take very good care of them, but I also will floor them and drive them hard occasionally once warmed up.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628852)

Internet posters shrewdly change their oil every 3k miles and then their head gaskets crack, water in coolant, cylinder #3 and #4 have low compression, etc etc, all of their "babying" and "maintenance" gets them nowhere, they just want to humour their notions of Determinism.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629135)

As for "paying attention," lol. I have never actually seen a Car physically leak any fluid, and I've looked, but somehow it fuckin happens, maybe Macguyver or an Engineer can trace the source.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629202)

As far as oil related failures, ask anyone with a BMW — yes vanos issues are tied to oil issues as are rod bearings on the M-cars and timing chains on the V8. And general wear and increased heat from having a sludged up engine. Plus leaks.

The bigger point is by the time an early 90s car got to the guy who paid $650, it was completely neglected. If the original owner kept up on it, it would be fine in all liklihood. And because that person paid $650, they won’t spend a few hundred bucks on maintence and repair parts to make it right so it will be an unreliable piece of shit. With the price and availability of parts now (rockauto is insanely good) there is almost nothing that needs to be unreliable in the right hands. I told the story of buying a YJ that had been sitting years for my GF for cheap and fixing it up. And my 20 year old pick up that has well over 300k Miles. I did a lot more than I had to on the YJ because I wanted it to be very good when done, but it starts right up even in the cold, runs great, stops great, drives great and I would take it anywhere without worry (especially because you can get parts for it anywhere unlike my fancy cars).

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629320)

I think the only real differences in cost between the two (non-M and both M3 and M5 have their own issues), are that the E46 has more subframe cracking issues and the V8 in the e39 is not as reliable as the straight 6 so you knock out some e39. I suppose you can get AWD in e46 which adds complexity and some are newer than e39 which ended in 2002. Also, manuals are more common in e46.

Anyway, yes, you must be able to work on them yourself if you want a cost effecient ownership experience from what I understand.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629639)

That is all consistent with what I've read (though I have basically no understanding of cars aside from picking up "common wisdom" on forums). The e39 m5 went until 2003 (with 2001-2003 as the post-facelift headlights and tail lights but otherwise same car as 2000). And to your point above the timing chain guides are relevant only on the 540i (as the m5 is apparently reinforced).

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629727)

e38 I heard there were a very few 95 6MT in the US, but I don’t think I have seen one so I don’t know if that is internet rumor or what. There is a lot of cool mid-90s stuff which will become importable soon and it is still very inexpensive in domestic markets (to the extent they still exist). Things like an L7, some of the diesel e38 with MT, diesel W140 etc. I think the big sedans are very undervalued.

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629877)

if your car has a turbo, then you should let the car idle for 1 minute before turning it off

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628643)

—cowgod

(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629213)