Is it bad for car to shut off engine while climate control is running?
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Poast new message in this thread
Date: January 20th, 2019 1:32 PM Author: Razzle-dazzle costumed shitlib church
You mean when car is stationary?
Most cars use the engine to run the ac. Putting a load on a stationary car is bad because the radiators might not get sufficient air to cool the engine.
There are some cars that run ac off the battery. Believe the worst that can happen here is you kill the battery.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37626499) |
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Date: January 20th, 2019 5:50 PM Author: henna property
That sounds like one of those prole goyisms that her dad would've taught her. A modern car would probably have the ECU to prevent any "badness" from occurring. Not to mention, if the engine is just sitting there, not even running, you can't really "hurt" it... it has no stake in the game.
Also, it's not that it's "bad" for it, it's that it won't even work in a lot of cars, i.e. the heater would just blow unheated air at you unless the engine is already warm. I would never even think to run the AC since it's so obvious that you need the engine for that. Like, the compressor is driven by a pully for which the engine has to be running for it to work.
The wife picked a fight about this since you're probably a liberal artist so even when you're right about Cars, you're declared wrong, and you SUCK, so it was just her way to pwn you.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628275) |
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Date: January 20th, 2019 6:01 PM Author: henna property
I actually didn't even read your post properly. I was assuming you were talking about running it in "accessory" like at a drive-in movie or something where you wouldn't want to run the car.
You're talking about a cold start. So, one of those prole wisdom nuggets is that you produce more "wear" when starting an engine than at any other time. Which kind of makes sense in a way if you're driving a 1960 Plymouth or something and the air/fuel mixture is just random for the first 10 seconds that it runs, but think about how modern ECUs work... this is totally outmoded prole science. Having the A/C running and having 1% more load on the engine just adds to this prole theory.
Having said that, typically, you don't want to run the AC at full blast when you first start the Car since the air won't be cold and it'll give you a high idle and maybe more vibration, which seems "bad" and probably isn't "good" since it's basially the opposite of an Italian tune-up. Over the course of YEARS, this is the sort of thing that might gradually fuck over the car's 3rd owner and it's just one of those things you sorta wouldn't do if you were babying an old car.
Heat, on the other hand, is nothing.... again it's not Hot at first but if anything you're taking stress off the engine. The conventional advice when a car is overheating is to actually run the heater full blast to remove heat. Engines like being cold and they produce more Power when they are.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628368) |
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Date: January 20th, 2019 6:53 PM Author: Razzle-dazzle costumed shitlib church
No shit cold air is more efficient.
You changed the subject from saying that a cold engine works better, which is a dumb statement to make.
edit: also you're the guy dismissing supposed "0.1%" things now arguing that these said marginal improvements are important.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628805) |
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Date: January 20th, 2019 6:34 PM Author: self-absorbed clown
It is a fact that wear occurs at start up and it has little to do with air fuel mixture. When the engine is not running, there is no oil pressure, so for the first second or so, the engine is turning without oil pressure. This, among other reasons, is why start stop systems are idiotic (and also largely ineffective in saving fuel in the real world). Air fuel mixture is another issue and all modern cars do fucktarded things to minimize emissions on start up and warm up, but there is not much the driver can do about that.
As far as wear on the engine, AC compressors have clutches such that the compressor is not engaged unless power is being sent to the clutch to engage it. Modern cars will disengage the clutch on start up even with the AC on, but this is not universal in my experience. So maybe it is beneficial so there is less load on the engine when cold (and also it’s probably sub optimal to run the compressor when the car is turning over). But not a big deal. It is a big deal and you should run your AC once a week or month in winter to keep the compressor moving and to prevent corrosion. Funny enough, modern cars run the compressor on defrost which is an old trick that works well that has no been automated (running AC dries out the air which makes defogging more efffective).
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628645) |
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Date: January 20th, 2019 7:16 PM Author: henna property
I never had Japanese cars, I am talking about my father would see some terrible car, like one of those brands they don't make any more, for sale in someone's yard and it would become my First Car because Reasons, and I would pay $650 and he would throw in $250 and tell everyone that he bought me a car, and it would barely pass inspection. Also, when I went to "college," I could not have a Car on campus for some reason, and my parents were INDIGNANT about my precious Car being kept at their houses, and demanded I take the plates off and "take it off the road," and then started talking about Ordinances about disused Cars without plates, and then my mother said that my Insurance would Lapse and would likely skyrocket, and that the whole thing would be my fault. I think she wanted me to continue Insuring it for no reason. So, don't you sit there talking about "ricer kids" like you know me.
As far as I can tell, Cars represent Freedom and Adulthood to boomers, so they wanted to mitigate the upsides of Car ownership as much as they possibly could in order to affect my life Negatively, again becase "reasons." Whereas we Gen Y bros see Cars as Transportation and shit.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37628944) |
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Date: January 20th, 2019 7:52 PM Author: henna property
Yeah that's what I am saying. But still like imagine being the original owner of a 1994 Dodge Intrepid or some other Car where every possible thing goes wrong, trying to keep it going in 2019 and all the issues you would've had over the years outside of "maintenance." Like you could almost just change the oil every 100k miles (filter more often) and have the same outcome. I talk to random people, like women and other insane people from time to time, plus hear stories, and they say that they just don't change their oil at all. Show me the guy in 2019 who's like, "oh no! If only I changed my oil!"
As for "paying attention," lol. I have never actually seen a Car physically leak any fluid, and I've looked, but somehow it fuckin happens, maybe Macguyver or an Engineer can trace the source.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629202) |
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Date: January 20th, 2019 8:09 PM Author: self-absorbed clown
I don’t know much about early 90s dodge cars, but early 90s GM are pretty good. Anything with the 3800 or TBI 4.3 or 5.7 anyway. As are 4.0 Jeeps which were Chrysler products.
As far as oil related failures, ask anyone with a BMW — yes vanos issues are tied to oil issues as are rod bearings on the M-cars and timing chains on the V8. And general wear and increased heat from having a sludged up engine. Plus leaks.
The bigger point is by the time an early 90s car got to the guy who paid $650, it was completely neglected. If the original owner kept up on it, it would be fine in all liklihood. And because that person paid $650, they won’t spend a few hundred bucks on maintence and repair parts to make it right so it will be an unreliable piece of shit. With the price and availability of parts now (rockauto is insanely good) there is almost nothing that needs to be unreliable in the right hands. I told the story of buying a YJ that had been sitting years for my GF for cheap and fixing it up. And my 20 year old pick up that has well over 300k Miles. I did a lot more than I had to on the YJ because I wanted it to be very good when done, but it starts right up even in the cold, runs great, stops great, drives great and I would take it anywhere without worry (especially because you can get parts for it anywhere unlike my fancy cars).
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629320)
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Date: January 20th, 2019 8:53 PM Author: self-absorbed clown
I would own an e39 M5. Been looking for the right one, but it has not shown itself yet. There is a really clean and cheap 95 e34 on craigslist nearby I have been eyeing, but I rather find a 735i so I am not going after it. I should have never sold my Bavaria. I really liked that car and it was not rusty. That is peak BMW sedan for me. I digress.
I think the only real differences in cost between the two (non-M and both M3 and M5 have their own issues), are that the E46 has more subframe cracking issues and the V8 in the e39 is not as reliable as the straight 6 so you knock out some e39. I suppose you can get AWD in e46 which adds complexity and some are newer than e39 which ended in 2002. Also, manuals are more common in e46.
Anyway, yes, you must be able to work on them yourself if you want a cost effecient ownership experience from what I understand.
(http://www.autoadmit.com/thread.php?thread_id=4181942&forum_id=2#37629639) |
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